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Photos provided by Kevin Malinak. The wrought Arm and Hammer Anvil is often confused with the cheaper cast Vulcan anvil.It is a American made steel faced wrought iron bodied anvil made by the Columbus Anvil and Forging company of Columbus, OH.
Not an expert but have been interested and watching anvils the last several years. Unfortunatly for anvil users, we have to compete with collectors and horders for old iron. As indicated, manufacture,condition, weight, (the more under 100#s or over 150-200#s they are, usually the bigger premium they bring) condition, age, type (solid steel, Wrought or cast, I much prefer to work on WI anvils)then possibly style.
This interview was conducted by Anvil Magazine editor Rob Edwards with Bill Pieh, owner of Centaur Forge, Ltd., in Burlington, Wisconsin, on March 6, 1985. ANVIL: Bill is probably the largest distributor of farrier and blacksmith supplies in the country, which would undoubtedly mean the world. Bill, tell me something. How many years did you shoe horses before you made the transition to the.
We currently have three acquired over the last four years, all in good conditon, nice faces with great 'rings': a Trenton 89# for 125 (Craigs List), WI Arm & Hammer 200# for $300 (Farm Auction) and a Peter Wright mounted on a well designed new steel stand for $150 (Craig's List). Broadcom bcm43xx 1.0 firmware update. These will more than do whatever I need for as far as I can see into the future. I still see good used steel and WI anvils selling anywhere from a real low of 50 cents a pound up to a very high on ebay of seven or eight dollars per pound. Note that none of this pertains to the imported 'solid' cast iron chinese garbage also known as ASOs (anvil shaped objects) How good a freind and what do you have in it?
I try not to make money from my friends or family. Hope this helps Regards Do. Good luck finding anything decent for a dollar a pound now--$3-5 is closer for a decent anvil, and more for a good one. Yes, they can still be found (I bought a 120-lb Trenton for $100 within the last year) but the price above is much closer to market value for a decent one in decent shape. Another thing to be careful of--the market has been flooded with cheap cast iron anvils--I'm sure you can guess the source of most of them.
Cast iron makes for a terrible anvil--you lose a very large portion of the strike force into the cast, and they will not hold up to even moderate use. Lots of unknowing or unscrupulous people out there who are more than willing to pawn them off as 'real' anvils on a buyer who assumes anything anvil-shaped must be an anvil! Bring a good hammer and test it before purchasing--no honest seller will mind, as after all that's what an anvil is made to do. There are also several reputable Internet sources for new anvils--usually Eastern European in origin--that are decent buys, though as you might expect, the killer with an anvil is the shipping cost, which can run as much as the anvil does.
- Your serial number 38508 would put the production year within 1922-1923 Arm and Hammer anvils share many of the same shapes and qualities of Trenton anvils. Columbus Anvil and Forging Co. Was actually started by a former employee and anvil maker for Columbus Forge and Iron Co. (Trenton) They were neighbors and even had some forgings done at.
- Can someone tell me the date of my Trenton anvil? It's serial number is A11076. It has the diamond with Trenton in it but also has a Buel Patent mark with what looks like 'Wroght Iron Guaranteed USA' written around the words Buel Patent. Any help would be appreciated.
- Trenton Anvil Company; Trenton Anvil Serial Numbers List; Greetings, According to my quick read of Anvils in America you have: A Columbus Forge and Iron made anvil. (Columbus, OH.) Probably with a cast iron base welded to a solid wrought upper works. (weld at the waist.) Serial number 18199 would have been 1900.
- Nov 09, 2014 Trenton 140 pound anvil - Duration: 10:17. Old Iron Machine Works 693 views. Damaged Anvils: When to Buy and When To Pass - Duration: 5:16. Purgatoryironworks 207,696 views.
With his recent passing my brothers and I have been finding many treasures in the moving process. I may be posting more pics later for ID help, just giving ya'll fair warning. The anvil weighs every bit of the 300 lbs. Dad bought it at, I can personally attest to that. Harry potter audiobook download mp3. The 'logo' in the pics looks to me like an arm holding a hammer with, what appears to be stenciled or painted on, the letters 'U.S.E.' It has had a ~3/8' plate welded onto the top, with the accompaning square and round hole to match the anvil, I am unsure why, but would probably like to remove it at some time. I want to thank the group in advance for any and all help ID'ing this anvil, and as mentioned above I may be asking for your help in the future to ID a few other pieces we have found, some of them I think I know what they are but would like an amen from the group before pronouncing them.
May 3, 2012 - With the low serial number I am going to guess it is from the early 1900's. Arm and Hammer is considered to be one of the better anvils.
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Can anyone tell me more about this anvil?
Got this thing at a local estate/going out of business sale. Needed a skidsteer to get it on and off the truck.
I can't find any markings on it. The back end appears to have fallen off some time ago.
Its sitting on top of a planetary gear from a truck (the base).
I'm not looking to do blacksmithing, but it seems like a nice thing to have around.
Anything I should do to it before I start to bang on it?- Join Date
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Probably a Vulcan. It has a thin hard faceplate (only about 3/16' thick) and a cast-iron body.
They're.. adequate. Better than the all-cast-iron Harbor Freight anvils, but nothing to write home to mom about.
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Look down low on the sides, possibly covered by the welded-angle clamp that's holding it to the base, for three groups of numerals. These express the weight of the anvil in an archaic style.
First number is the number of Hundredweights (cwt.) which are 114 lbs avoirdupois.
Second number is in Stone, which are 14 lbs adv.
Third number is pounds.
If you see this weight marking, you can be sure the anvil is OLD.
Of course, your anvil will not weigh as much as it might be marked because it is missing a big chunk.
The base is cleverly designed. Does it swivel on the truck planetary?
JRRLast edited by SouthBendModel34; 04-08-2009 at 07:56 PM. Reason: spelling avoirdupois
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Been in rough company???
Been in rough company???
Yes, they broke an anvil
Ray- Diamond
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The hundredweight system is only marked on anvils imported from England.
An English anvil could be OLD, but it could be as recent as 1900.
But if this is a Vulcan, that is an american made anvil, and should have an arm and hammer logo on it, on the side.
If the weight is marked on american anvils, it will be in pounds, easy to understand, no code required.
Vulcan made anvils as late as 1970. - Join Date
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The hundredweight system is only marked on anvils imported from England.This is not correct. Many anvils made in the US were marked in this manner. It was the normal manner of marking weights on anvils.
An English anvil could be OLD, but it could be as recent as 1900.
I have an American made anvil marked in this manner and know from experience and research this is true.
That poor anvil certainly did not lead a pampered existence!
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Cadzook,
Noting that is your Post #1, welcome to the PM community. Your screen name is good - I take it as a take-off on 'Gadzooks' with a CAD slant. (Having written that, I'll be embarrassed if my take on it is totally wrong.)
Timekiller,
'They broke an anvil' - oddly enough, this is the second anvil broken through the hardie hole that I've seen in my lifetime. The other was a small-ish one, probably originally a 100-pounder, used as a doorstop at an antique shop in Whitehall or Fort Ann, NY.
Just exactly how a non-flawed anvil could get broken in this fashion is unclear to me unless somebody pounded a wedge-shaped object into the hardie hole.
Have heard that during the Civil War, the two sides would vandalize any anvils they found in the opponent's territory on the basis that they could be used to make or mend war material or cavalry horseshoes. The preferred method was knocking the feet off the anvil off with a sledge. (Source: OLDTOOLS mailing list.)
[On Edit] This caused a demand for anvils after the unpleasantness was over. The Fisher & Norris works in Trenton made anvils without their eagle trademark to fufull this demand in the Southen states. The federal eagle was not a welcome sight below the Mason-Dixon line during the reconstruction period.
From the same source, I learned of another form of anvil abuse called 'firing the anvil' - using a powder charge to fling an anvil skyward during various celebrations. (I'm not kidding!)
JRRLast edited by SouthBendModel34; 04-09-2009 at 02:57 PM. Reason: Added the [On Edit} paragraph
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Just exactly how a non-flawed anvil could get broken in this fashion is unclear to me unless somebody pounded a wedge-shaped object into the hardie hole.I've read that working a very cold anvil can cause a break like this. General rule of thumb is 10 lbs of sledge per 100 weight of anvil.
Too much sledge on the heel..a cold winter morning..Anvil kaput. - Join Date
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As I said, this anvil is very probably cast iron. The top face plate is/was only about 3/16' thick.
Somebody beat too hard, too long, on the heel, and the cast iron cracked through the hardy.
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As a kid, I once saw an 850 lb. Fisher anvil with the tail broken off through the pritchell hole. The owner was at a craft show where Dad was blacksmithing and somehow we ended up going to his house to see it. This would have been in the northwestern Pennsylvania area.
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We'll have to wait for the OP to weigh in again on the markings..there definitely looks to be some markings on the body of the anvil not shown in full..you can just see it from the backside if you look at the left body.
I was more making a point about striking a very cold anvil, causing it to break. Cast steel, wrought iron and cast iron would all be susceptible to breakage from cold. The OP is from Colorado..cold weather country.
That's an abused looking tool regardless, that looks like it suffered many a day at the hands of an unskilled 'smith' - Join Date
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Yup. I seen it on the TeeVee - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_c0B00Ax3w
From the same source, I learned of another form of anvil abuse called 'firing the anvil' - using a powder charge to fling an anvil skyward during various celebrations. (I'm not kidding!)
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Being in the Heart of Dixie
Southbendmodel34,
I see a number of damaged anvils down here. The horn was regularly broken off and some just the mid section survived.
Yes, they do 'shoot' anvils too. Stack two anvils base to base filling the void in the bases with black powder and light them off. OH! Watch Out for the Flying Anvil! Local city, band the practice, which was used to start the annual fiddlers convention
I've wanted a broken anvil so I could advertise could fix anything but a broken anvil or broken heart. Never found one with the broken part(s)
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I have a book where the author says that many southern anvils had their horns and/or tails broken off by union troops during the 'War between the States'.
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SouthBend34, thanks for the welcome. As for the name, your theory was good, a logical assumption amongst machinists. But, the Cad comes from my '49 Cadillac (that is it's name and license #). The rest is correct.
Thanks
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Speaking of broken anvils, I have seen one broken horizontally across the 'waist'- the narrow part between the upper and lower parts.
The smith had then fixed it by putting a 1/2' steel (or iron) fish plate on either side, joined by 1/2' dia. solid rivets.
I asked the owner how the anvil could could possibly have been broken like that. His theory was that it had been caused by firing the anvil, as described above.
Unfortunately, I don't have a picture.
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Thanks for all the replys guys.
I'll try to fins some markings underneath the base holder. I couldn't find any on the side. Maybe it was marked on the part that fell off the backend?- Join Date
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Just saw this clever way to fix a broken anvil, thought I should post it here.
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It'll never catch on, not with me. I wouldn't be able to lift and swing one of those buggers. Give me a hickory shaft any day.
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Yup, it'd be a handy thing to have on hand if you were looking for something to drop on my hero..Wile E. Coyote.
It wouldn't happen to say 'Acme' on it by any chance would it??
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Can anyone tell me more about this anvil?
Got this thing at a local estate/going out of business sale. Needed a skidsteer to get it on and off the truck.
I can't find any markings on it. The back end appears to have fallen off some time ago.
Its sitting on top of a planetary gear from a truck (the base).
I'm not looking to do blacksmithing, but it seems like a nice thing to have around.
Anything I should do to it before I start to bang on it?- Join Date
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Probably a Vulcan. It has a thin hard faceplate (only about 3/16' thick) and a cast-iron body.
They're.. adequate. Better than the all-cast-iron Harbor Freight anvils, but nothing to write home to mom about.
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Look down low on the sides, possibly covered by the welded-angle clamp that's holding it to the base, for three groups of numerals. These express the weight of the anvil in an archaic style.
First number is the number of Hundredweights (cwt.) which are 114 lbs avoirdupois.
Second number is in Stone, which are 14 lbs adv.
Third number is pounds.
If you see this weight marking, you can be sure the anvil is OLD.
Of course, your anvil will not weigh as much as it might be marked because it is missing a big chunk.
The base is cleverly designed. Does it swivel on the truck planetary?
JRRLast edited by SouthBendModel34; 04-08-2009 at 07:56 PM. Reason: spelling avoirdupois
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Been in rough company???
Been in rough company???
Yes, they broke an anvil
Ray- Diamond
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The hundredweight system is only marked on anvils imported from England.
An English anvil could be OLD, but it could be as recent as 1900.
But if this is a Vulcan, that is an american made anvil, and should have an arm and hammer logo on it, on the side.
If the weight is marked on american anvils, it will be in pounds, easy to understand, no code required.
Vulcan made anvils as late as 1970. - Join Date
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The hundredweight system is only marked on anvils imported from England.This is not correct. Many anvils made in the US were marked in this manner. It was the normal manner of marking weights on anvils.
An English anvil could be OLD, but it could be as recent as 1900.
I have an American made anvil marked in this manner and know from experience and research this is true.
That poor anvil certainly did not lead a pampered existence!
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Cadzook,
Noting that is your Post #1, welcome to the PM community. Your screen name is good - I take it as a take-off on 'Gadzooks' with a CAD slant. (Having written that, I'll be embarrassed if my take on it is totally wrong.)
Timekiller,
'They broke an anvil' - oddly enough, this is the second anvil broken through the hardie hole that I've seen in my lifetime. The other was a small-ish one, probably originally a 100-pounder, used as a doorstop at an antique shop in Whitehall or Fort Ann, NY.
Just exactly how a non-flawed anvil could get broken in this fashion is unclear to me unless somebody pounded a wedge-shaped object into the hardie hole.
Have heard that during the Civil War, the two sides would vandalize any anvils they found in the opponent's territory on the basis that they could be used to make or mend war material or cavalry horseshoes. The preferred method was knocking the feet off the anvil off with a sledge. (Source: OLDTOOLS mailing list.)
[On Edit] This caused a demand for anvils after the unpleasantness was over. The Fisher & Norris works in Trenton made anvils without their eagle trademark to fufull this demand in the Southen states. The federal eagle was not a welcome sight below the Mason-Dixon line during the reconstruction period.
From the same source, I learned of another form of anvil abuse called 'firing the anvil' - using a powder charge to fling an anvil skyward during various celebrations. (I'm not kidding!)
JRRLast edited by SouthBendModel34; 04-09-2009 at 02:57 PM. Reason: Added the [On Edit} paragraph
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Just exactly how a non-flawed anvil could get broken in this fashion is unclear to me unless somebody pounded a wedge-shaped object into the hardie hole.I've read that working a very cold anvil can cause a break like this. General rule of thumb is 10 lbs of sledge per 100 weight of anvil.
Too much sledge on the heel..a cold winter morning..Anvil kaput. - Join Date
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As I said, this anvil is very probably cast iron. The top face plate is/was only about 3/16' thick.
Somebody beat too hard, too long, on the heel, and the cast iron cracked through the hardy.
Doc.- Titanium
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As a kid, I once saw an 850 lb. Fisher anvil with the tail broken off through the pritchell hole. The owner was at a craft show where Dad was blacksmithing and somehow we ended up going to his house to see it. This would have been in the northwestern Pennsylvania area.
Andy - Stainless
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We'll have to wait for the OP to weigh in again on the markings..there definitely looks to be some markings on the body of the anvil not shown in full..you can just see it from the backside if you look at the left body.
I was more making a point about striking a very cold anvil, causing it to break. Cast steel, wrought iron and cast iron would all be susceptible to breakage from cold. The OP is from Colorado..cold weather country.
That's an abused looking tool regardless, that looks like it suffered many a day at the hands of an unskilled 'smith' - Join Date
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Yup. I seen it on the TeeVee - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_c0B00Ax3w
From the same source, I learned of another form of anvil abuse called 'firing the anvil' - using a powder charge to fling an anvil skyward during various celebrations. (I'm not kidding!)
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Being in the Heart of Dixie
Southbendmodel34,
I see a number of damaged anvils down here. The horn was regularly broken off and some just the mid section survived.
Yes, they do 'shoot' anvils too. Stack two anvils base to base filling the void in the bases with black powder and light them off. OH! Watch Out for the Flying Anvil! Local city, band the practice, which was used to start the annual fiddlers convention
I've wanted a broken anvil so I could advertise could fix anything but a broken anvil or broken heart. Never found one with the broken part(s)
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I have a book where the author says that many southern anvils had their horns and/or tails broken off by union troops during the 'War between the States'.
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SouthBend34, thanks for the welcome. As for the name, your theory was good, a logical assumption amongst machinists. But, the Cad comes from my '49 Cadillac (that is it's name and license #). The rest is correct.
Thanks
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Speaking of broken anvils, I have seen one broken horizontally across the 'waist'- the narrow part between the upper and lower parts.
The smith had then fixed it by putting a 1/2' steel (or iron) fish plate on either side, joined by 1/2' dia. solid rivets.
I asked the owner how the anvil could could possibly have been broken like that. His theory was that it had been caused by firing the anvil, as described above.
Unfortunately, I don't have a picture.
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Thanks for all the replys guys.
I'll try to fins some markings underneath the base holder. I couldn't find any on the side. Maybe it was marked on the part that fell off the backend?- Join Date
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Just saw this clever way to fix a broken anvil, thought I should post it here.
- Diamond
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It'll never catch on, not with me. I wouldn't be able to lift and swing one of those buggers. Give me a hickory shaft any day.
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Yup, it'd be a handy thing to have on hand if you were looking for something to drop on my hero..Wile E. Coyote.
It wouldn't happen to say 'Acme' on it by any chance would it??
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Trenton Anvil Serial Numbers Lookup
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Trenton Anvil Serial Number Lookup
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